Island Hopping in the Pacific Northwest: A guide to biking and driving the San Juan Islands
By: Kiraney Cummins
June 21st, 2013
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Kiraney Cummins
Island Hopping in the Pacific Northwest:  A guide to biking and driving the San Juan Islands

Your recipe for the perfect vacation this summer: take a few long walks on the beach, add a morning of window shopping for local arts and crafts, toss in a dash of fine dining or organic treats, and garnish with your choice of boating, hiking, or wildlife watching. This tempting island vacation doesn’t require two tickets to paradise and an unnecessary strain on your schedule and wallet; it’s actually just a few hours away, in the San Juan Islands.

The San Juan Islands are an archipelago of 172 islands in northern Washington, four of the largest of which are serviced by the Washington State Ferries system, making the San Juans the perfect destination for a long weekend or a week-long trip from most parts of the Pacific Northwest. Because they are relatively small and only accessed by boat or plane, bicycling is an ideal way to tour the islands. Whether you choose to explore the San Juans by two wheels or four, or even on foot, the islands offer plenty to entertain travelers of all ages.

About Leif’s Summer Roadtrip Series

This summer we will publish a series of articles that combine two of my greatest passions; cars and the Pacific Northwest.

Should you decide to try one or a few of the overnight trips we’ll present, you and your travel companions will enjoy The Area’s less widely known but truly iconic scenery and experiences en route to your destination.

If you find these articles valuable or have suggestions for new ideas or improvements, we would love to hear from you. Please email us at webmail@leifs.com.

– Leif

The Drive:

If you start your drive from the Portland area, the San Juan Islands are almost a straight shot up Interstate 5, on an easy route that can be driven in a little over 4 hours (250 miles) from Portland, or an hour and a half (80 miles) from Seattle. On your way to the Anacortes Ferry Terminal, where you will depart for the islands, you’ll be treated to views of the state’s diverse terrain including beautiful coastal vistas in the last stretch of the drive. From Anacortes, you’ll board the ferry to set out on your San Juan Islands adventure. The ferry accommodates foot passengers, bicycles, and vehicles. Tickets are only issued for travel from Anacortes, so hopping between islands and your return route will be free. The four ferry-serviced islands can be visited in any order, although working with the ferry schedule, as our itinerary follows, helps to maximize your time on each island.

Traveling out to the islands from Anacortes you’ll be surrounded by some of Washington’s most spectacular scenery. The San Juans are mostly mountainous, dotted with old-growth Douglas Fir, Western Red Cedar, and various other sub-alpine trees, including the infamous Pacific Madrona Trees, known for their peeling bark. Around the four main islands, you’ll find rocky beaches perfect for beach combing and wildlife watching. Throughout your journey to and around the San Juan Islands, keep an eye out for the most famous inhabitants: the native wildlife, including Bald Eagles, Great Blue Herons, Harbor Seals, Dall’s Porpoises, Orcas, and many other species.

The Route: Anacortes, Lopez Island, Shaw Island, Orcas Island, and San Juan Island

Lopez Island

“The Friendly Isle,” is the third largest of the islands, but at only 29.81 square miles it is easily explored by bike, car, or on foot. Unlike the two larger islands, Lopez is known for being relatively flat with only a few rolling hills stretching across the farm land, forest, and beaches that make up the majority of the island, so it is the most popular choice for bicycle tourists. On a full or half-day trip to Lopez Island you can easily visit all of these destinations by bicycle:

  • Lopez Village: After just over 20 minutes on your bicycle (4.2 miles), or less than 10 minutes by car, you’ll reach this small walkable village that is home to most of the businesses of the 2,000 residents of the island, including restaurants, art galleries, shops, an historical museum, and a famous fudge shop.
  • Lopez Island Vineyard: On your way from the ferry landing to Lopez Village you’ll pass the only winery on the island. It is also one of just a few vineyards in the San Juans.
  • Spencer Spit State Park: Travelers love camping, hiking, boating, and viewing the wildlife at this state park located on a long narrow sandspit at the northeast side of the island just a 20 minute bike ride (3.5 miles) from Lopez Village.
  • Odin County Park: If you’re only planning a short stop on Lopez, head to this park near the ferry landing where you’ll have access to a campground, picnic area, and boat launch on the beach.

Shaw Island

The smallest of the ferry-served islands is also the least visited, but if you have half a day to spare, you’ll have plenty of time to explore this sparsely populated paradise. While the island shares the same spectacular landscapes you’ll find throughout the San Juans, Shaw is not known for an abundance of tourist destinations like the larger islands. If you plan a trip to Shaw Island, you can visit these destinations in just a few hours:

  • Little Red Schoolhouse: This one room school, less than 2.5 miles from the ferry, dates to the 1890s and is still in use today.
    Our Lady of the Rock Benedictine Monastery: While you’re visiting the school, hop on over to the nearby monastery where the resident nuns manage a farm and enjoy having visitors.
  • Shaw County Park: Just two miles from the ferry landing you’ll find this beachfront park that has facilities for camping, picnics, and boating.
  • General Store: There are two great reasons to visit Shaw’s general store at the Ferry Landing: it’s one of the oldest stores you might ever visit and it’s the only store on the island.
  • Log Cabin Historical Museum & Shaw Island Library: These two destinations are located in the middle of the island and are a perfect stop for a longer stay on Shaw or for those interested in learning about the island’s history.

Orcas Island

The charm of the San Juan’s largest island, nicknamed “The Emerald Isle” becomes evident when you learn how many of the locals came just for a visit and never left. The island is shaped like the letter M and covers about 57 square miles, making some destinations more appropriate for experienced cyclists or vehicle travel only. You’ll find the population of Orcas is spread throughout the island in its small villages, and in the business center: the village of Eastsound. On your trip to Orcas Island, plan at least a full day to visit these popular attractions:

  • Moran State Park: Spend a morning or afternoon at the largest public recreation area in the San Juan Islands, where you can explore lakes, waterfalls, hiking trails, multiple campgrounds, and Mount Constitution the highest point in the San Juans. Drive, bike, or hike to the top of the 2,409 foot mountain to enjoy views stretching across the San Juan Islands all the way to Canada, but be warned: reaching the park itself is a long bike ride at 13 miles from the ferry landing and that’s before you head up the hill to Mount Constitution.
  • Eastsound: Motorists or avid cyclists can drive or bike 8.5 hilly miles to the main village of Orcas Island to enjoy a meal and view the work of the island’s resident artists and craft-makers at shops and art galleries, or stop by the San Juan Islands’ only brewery.
  • Olga: Continue past Eastsound, 20 minutes by car (7.9 miles) to see Orcas Island Artworks, a cooperative where some of the island’s best arts and crafts are made, displayed, and sold.
  • Deer Harbor: Only 20 minutes by car (7.5 miles) from the ferry landing, you’ll find this small community that is home to one of the island’s few sandy beaches, as well as excellent eateries, and a marina that is a popular destination for boating and whale watching tours.

Friday Harbor, San Juan Island

The second largest of the San Juan Islands is not only the most populous, but it’s also the most popular island, receiving swarms of visitors every summer. San Juan Island has two large harbor villages, one of which, Friday Harbor, is the location of the ferry landing so it’s perfect for a visit on foot or bike. You can spend a day exploring Friday Harbor, or take a bike, moped, or car, all of which can be rented in town, to visit the many destinations throughout the 55-square-mile island. During the summer, a shuttle bus also travels between Friday Harbor and some of the main attractions.

  • Friday Harbor: This pedestrian-friendly town has a wide selection of shopping, dining, and accommodation options as well as many traditional tourist attractions. In Friday Harbor, visitors can also learn about the history of the region at the San Juan Historical Museum and about the native animals at the Whale Museum.
  • Roche Harbor: The island’s second most populous area is Roche Harbor Resort, at the far north end, 9.5 miles from Friday Harbor. Some of the most stunning yachts and sailboats in the world are moored in the marina at Roche Harbor, and you’ll find entertainment in the form of shopping and dining throughout the village.
  • English Camp & American Camp: These two historical sites are part of the San Juan Island National Historic Park and originate from the 1850 “Pig War” between British and American troops. Visitors to the two camps, on opposite ends of the island, one near Roche Harbor and the other near Friday Harbor, can view reconstructed military fort buildings and interpretive exhibits.
  • Lime Kiln Point State Park: This state park earned the nickname Whale Watch Park because of the three resident orca pods that pass by each summer. It is the only park in the world that is dedicated to shore-side whale watching. You’ll have to travel across the island, about 20 minutes by car, to reach this unique spot.

Extend your trip:

If you have a few extra hours or days to spare, consider visiting one of these nearby destinations.

  • Deception Pass Bridge: For a short detour on your way south, drive just 8.7 miles south from the Anacortes Ferry Terminal to take in the jaw dropping views from this towering bridge connecting the peninsula to Whidbey Island.
  • Olympic National Park: Add a few extra days to your route if you’d like to explore Washington’s beautiful expanse of mountainous forest and coastal land where abundant camping and hiking opportunities will thrill any outdoor lover.
  • Victoria BC: From Anacortes, it’s less than four hours to reach Victoria, British Columbia via the Sidney BC Ferry. This popular Canadian town has parks, gardens, museums, and many destinations that are perfect for enjoying a few extra days on your San Juan Islands road trip.

We have more Summer Road Trips for you.

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